Speedholds

Standards defined by the IFSC

The official speed trap must comply with standard dimensions and shapes (heights and diagonals). The route must also respect a configuration in terms of the positioning of holds and angles. In this respect, the IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing) has defined strict specifications that very few hold manufacturers are able to produce. VOLX is currently the only approved supplier. All holds are registered and identified by a unique number.

Features of the speed grabs and climbing wall

There are two versions of the official wall (rated 6C) with a 5 degree gradient and a width of 3 m per lane:

• 10 m climbing wall with 12 handholds and 8 footholds
• 15 m wall with 20 hand holds and 11 foot holds

Furthermore, the foot and hand grips have specific positions and shapes. The foot grips are simple and half-spherical, while the hand grips offer four different types of grip.

Competition rules for speed climbing

Speed climbing is an official discipline in which 2 climbers compete in a duel. During the events, they must reach the top of an approved wall as quickly as possible. Competitions take place on identical parallel routes of the same height, and men and women compete on the same routes, unchanged between rounds.

The competition follows these 3 stages:

1. Starting position: climbers must place their hands on one of the two standardised starting holds before the start signal is given.
2. Start of the stopwatch: as soon as the climber removes their foot from the start pad.
3. At the top: the climber must strike the finish pad to stop the stopwatch.

The history of speed climbing: from passion to competition

Speed climbing as a discipline really took off with the organisation of the first World Championships in 1991 in Frankfurt. From then on, this discipline, which until then had been confined to bouldering and difficulty, began to come into its own.

Over time, the quest for performance progressed. The organisation of the sport intensified, marked by the creation of the International Council of Competitive Climbing in 1997, which became the IFSC in 2007. It was at this time that climbing routes were approved for international speed competitions. This was thanks to Jacky Godoffe, who in 2004 conceived the beginnings of the official speed route.

The great speed climbing champions (Qixin Zhong, Aleksandra Miroslaw and many others) were born, pushing the latest world record further and further.

The apotheosis of the discipline's progress is reached in 2020, when climbing is included in the Tokyo Olympic Games. This journey is a testament to the evolution of a sport steeped in history and constantly seeking recognition and innovation.